茶道的核心是什么

“茶道”的核心是什么?是“和”。“茶道”的義理是什么?主要有七:即“茶藝”,“茶德”，“茶禮”,“茶理”,“茶情”,“茶學(xué)說”,“茶導(dǎo)引”;七者缺一不可。這就是中國茶道的所謂“七義一心”。

  

國家級“非遺”傳承人葉啟桐已是耄耋之年，在武夷山他的資歷也最老，他把他一生中的60多年時光交給了茶事業(yè), 見證了近現(xiàn)代武夷茶的起起伏伏。為什么葉啟桐能成為武夷巖茶發(fā)展史上承前啟后的一個關(guān)鍵人物?他眼中的傳承是什么?

人物名片/葉啟桐

葉啟桐，男，漢族，出生于1943年11月29日，籍貫福建省周寧縣。長期從事武夷巖茶的生產(chǎn)、制作及科研。2004年、2006年，兩度主持了武夷巖茶國家質(zhì)量標(biāo)準(zhǔn)樣本的制作，為武夷巖茶產(chǎn)品質(zhì)量的規(guī)范化做出了努力。2009年6月被文化部授予國家級非物質(zhì)文化遺產(chǎn)武夷巖茶(大紅袍)傳統(tǒng)制作技藝代表性傳承人稱號。

“不會賣茶的制茶師 不是一個好場長”

一切起承轉(zhuǎn)合，命運(yùn)早已注定。1956年，葉啟桐隨擔(dān)任崇安茶場副場長的父親葉先順舉家搬遷到武夷山。

上世紀(jì)60年代，葉啟桐從建陽農(nóng)校畢業(yè)后，就回到崇安茶場，成為一名普通工人。從茶樹種植、茶園管理，到參與測定巖茶化學(xué)成分的科學(xué)研究，再到對茶葉生產(chǎn)的大田管理、毛茶初制、品質(zhì)檢驗(yàn)審評，葉啟桐從各種茶葉生產(chǎn)勞動實(shí)踐中積累了豐富的經(jīng)驗(yàn)。

在制茶方面，葉啟桐師從父親葉先順，并從民間制茶師傅身上汲取武夷巖茶制作的經(jīng)驗(yàn)，在實(shí)踐中加以改進(jìn)和提高，總結(jié)出一套完整的包括萎凋、做青、雙揉雙炒、焙火等需要高超技能的武夷巖茶傳統(tǒng)手工制作技藝。

崇安茶場舊照：從左至右分別為姚月明、葉啟桐、徐景春、張佩貴、葉先順。

地點(diǎn)：崇安茶場第四作業(yè)區(qū)。

1976年起，葉啟桐在崇安茶場、邵武吳家塘農(nóng)場擔(dān)負(fù)精制武夷巖茶、烘青花坯以及小種紅茶的全面技術(shù)工作。為了提高效益，他組織重新安裝布置精茶加工機(jī)械，大大提高精茶加工能力，除承擔(dān)全縣巖茶、綠茶和小種紅茶的加工任務(wù)，還為福州茶廠加工花茶。在六大茶類中，除了福建省不產(chǎn)的黑茶、黃茶，葉啟桐精通紅茶、綠茶、青茶、白茶的制作工藝。

整整10年的努力，讓葉啟桐成為使崇安茶場扭虧為盈的關(guān)鍵人物。在上世紀(jì)八十年代，崇安茶場年終財(cái)務(wù)決算盈利過五十萬元，居全省農(nóng)茶場盈利單位的最前列?；谥T多創(chuàng)新與貢獻(xiàn)，1991年起，葉啟桐被任命為崇安茶場場長。

葉啟桐在山場上看茶

葉啟桐的全面，不僅僅體現(xiàn)在制茶和管理生產(chǎn)上，他還是一位優(yōu)秀的“業(yè)務(wù)員”。除了研究技術(shù)之外，他還親自跑銷售，足跡遍布北京、上海、山東等地，最遠(yuǎn)抵達(dá)了甘肅金昌。

在上世紀(jì)八、九十年代，甘肅的交通落后，葉啟桐靠電報與客戶溝通，在金昌偶爾打一次電話都必須往郵局跑一趟，可見銷售工作之困難。而當(dāng)時的葉啟桐腦中只有一個念頭激勵著他——“不做就賺不到錢，不做工人就沒飯吃?！庇矛F(xiàn)在的網(wǎng)絡(luò)語言來說，他以實(shí)際行動詮釋了什么叫做“不會賣茶的制茶師不是一個好場長”。

葉啟桐與其父在茶場的幾十年，不僅為茶場創(chuàng)造了更高的經(jīng)濟(jì)效益，也保障了近兩千名工人的“飯碗”，卻從沒有為自己謀過私利，未拿過茶場一磚一瓦。武夷茶界談起他們的時候，無不稱贊。

葉啟桐指導(dǎo)種茶、進(jìn)行茶葉審評工作

懂得與自然對話，才能做出最好的茶

精通制茶的人，是自然與生活的連接者。葉啟桐說：“要懂得如何與自然對話，才可以做出最好的茶。”

“香、清、甘、活”，是梁章鉅先生記載的武夷巖茶的品鑒特色，講述了武夷巖茶外觀、香氣、口感等多方面的特質(zhì)，葉啟桐談到最抽象的“活”，指出其是武夷巖茶獨(dú)特的生命氣息?！袄喜枞艘缓?，就知道這個茶產(chǎn)自哪個山頭，制茶人付出過什么樣的努力，所以喝的過程還要打開心靈，這是品茶的最高境界?！?/p>

“茶樹跟大自然一起成長，因?yàn)樗c蘭花、桃樹、苔蘚、草藥和毛竹一起生長，就會具有相對應(yīng)的味道，這是非常和諧與美好的事情，所以我們要愛護(hù)自然界里的一草一木，不能隨便踐踏。巖茶的韻，也是來源于此，這是我們中國人的文化?！比~老一字一句的解釋，讓人讀到了千帆過后依舊保留熱愛的心境。

葉啟桐在其著作《名山靈芽——武夷巖茶》一書中也對武夷巖茶的相關(guān)問題進(jìn)行了理論探討，對武夷巖茶的起源與變遷、巖韻的形成、特殊的采制工藝、獨(dú)特的品飲藝術(shù)等進(jìn)行了闡述，并對武夷巖茶的核心概念“巖韻”提出一家之言：所謂巖韻，從物質(zhì)層面上說，是大自然的氣息，從精神的層面看，體現(xiàn)了中國人對天人合一的理想人生境界的追求。

談及巖茶，其精髓無疑在于匠心獨(dú)運(yùn)的制茶技藝。葉啟桐深諳此道，他領(lǐng)悟到，制茶之核心，乃在于維護(hù)茶葉那鮮活的生命力。自茶樹上精心采摘的葉片，經(jīng)過萎凋、做青、炒青等一道道精細(xì)工序，最終蛻變?yōu)榫G葉紅鑲邊、清香四溢的武夷巖茶，其生命之火并未熄滅，而是以一種更為優(yōu)雅的形式，深藏于每一片茶葉之中。

優(yōu)質(zhì)的茶葉，色澤鮮亮，口感醇厚，韻味悠長，這些皆源于其內(nèi)在的生命力。因此，制茶的過程，便是對茶葉生命的細(xì)心呵護(hù)與珍視。每一道工序，都是對茶葉生命的守護(hù)與喚醒，是對其生命之美的贊頌與呈現(xiàn)。制茶，正是一場“呵護(hù)生命、綻放美麗”的旅程。

葉啟桐提到自己對武夷巖茶的體會，也是隨著時間慢慢加深的。他強(qiáng)調(diào)，身為茶人，最寶貴的莫過于那份堅(jiān)守茶人本色的情懷。無論世事如何更迭，那份對茶的熱愛與執(zhí)著始終如一，以真誠、踏實(shí)和本分之心，精心炮制每一杯精致的茶湯，這正是茶人最本真的體現(xiàn)。

做茶苦，傳承需要意志、奉獻(xiàn)和智慧

“綠水青山就是金山銀山”，在葉啟桐看來，傳承的前提是保護(hù)武夷山的生態(tài)環(huán)境，他介紹：“不管別的品種有多好賣，我們茶山上的奇種(武夷山原生菜茶品種)一棵都沒有動過，要保持茶山的生物品種多樣性，更要保護(hù)茶樹品種的多樣性?！?/p>

傳承是一種意志，一種使命感。葉啟桐曾說：“學(xué)茶，是要有意志的?！被仡欁约涸谏鲜兰o(jì)60年代初期，和父親一起在這片茶場度過的歲月，從基層做起所經(jīng)歷種種辛苦，讓那段時光變得尤為難忘。葉啟桐直言，做茶葉是件非常辛苦的事情，白天晚上都要把心思、精力放在茶葉上才能學(xué)到真東西。

“我們的先輩，為黨和國家的事業(yè)奉獻(xiàn)了一切。作為一名老黨員，我愿將余熱奉獻(xiàn)給自己熱愛的事業(yè)，生命不息，奮斗不止。”一份樸實(shí)的堅(jiān)守，就是對祖國、對事業(yè)最長情的告白。

此外，傳承還要有一種“大局觀”。葉啟桐說：“做茶和做人一樣，茶品即人品。茶事活動應(yīng)該著眼全局推廣整個武夷巖茶?！?/p>

在茶行業(yè)中，正能量的注入顯得至關(guān)重要，它呼喚著堅(jiān)韌不拔和無私奉獻(xiàn)的精神。傳承，其內(nèi)涵遠(yuǎn)不止于傳統(tǒng)技藝的代代相傳，更在于精神的薪火相傳。

正如葉啟桐所說，傳統(tǒng)技藝是我們寶貴的根脈，它值得我們?nèi)プ鹬睾褪刈o(hù)，但與此同時，我們也應(yīng)擁抱創(chuàng)新，讓技藝與時俱進(jìn)，不斷煥發(fā)出新的活力。茶，作為中國的文化瑰寶，若想走向世界，滿足更廣泛市場的需求，就必須注重提升其經(jīng)濟(jì)效益，通過創(chuàng)新和現(xiàn)代化的手段，讓這一傳統(tǒng)瑰寶煥發(fā)新的光彩。

葉啟桐指導(dǎo)傳承者制茶

每年制茶季，葉啟桐一定會親臨現(xiàn)場指導(dǎo)弟子們做茶，開篩、晾青、做青、揉茶……在一系列步驟中悉心指導(dǎo)，傾囊相授。這位老茶人，頭發(fā)花白，聊起茶來仍興致高昂，吐字鏗鏘有力，真性情中似有武夷山的巖骨。

葉啟桐的弟子薛庭幾度收割武夷山的“茶王”和“狀元”，“做茶如做人，要非常清晰，每個環(huán)節(jié)都務(wù)必結(jié)合得很清楚”，師父的話，他謹(jǐn)記于心。薛庭也從師父教身上學(xué)會了“勤勇”，學(xué)會與自然對話，以一泡好茶作為給山谷的“回應(yīng)”。

在歲月的長河中回首，葉啟桐深情地提及，產(chǎn)業(yè)的繁榮非一人之力所成，而是萬千人齊心協(xié)力的結(jié)晶。他謙遜地表示，自己不過是恪守職責(zé)，成為了其中的一份子與代表。他就像一棵歷經(jīng)滄桑的老茶樹，靜靜矗立于武夷山脈的懷抱，默默汲取著山川的精華，將智慧與奉獻(xiàn)無私地融入每一片茶葉之中。

來源：茶道CN ，作者聞彥

如涉及版權(quán)問題請聯(lián)系刪除

　　如果有一種全球通用的語言，那一定是“茶”。無論你來自哪里，我們都可以因?yàn)橐槐瑁蚕硪欢蚊篮玫臅r光。4月19日晚，來自五湖四海的朋友相聚在被稱為法國“孔子學(xué)院”的昆明“法語聯(lián)盟”，觥籌交錯，茶香四溢，伴著優(yōu)美的中西和樂，共同度過了一個美妙的夜晚，普洱茶就這樣曼妙地打開了...

　　If there is an universal language, that must be tea. No matter where are you from, we can sit down and share some sweet tea time. On April 19th, we gathered together in Kunming Alliance Francaise, accompanied by romantic wine and aromatic tea, listened to beautiful the western and Chinese traditional tutti, spent a wonderful and pleasant evening, we all astonished that how interesting and romantic to enjoy pu-erh tea this way!

　　此次活動是由“葡言茶語”全程策劃，昆明法語聯(lián)盟，六山賀開古茶莊園，杰曦法國葡萄酒，普洱雜志聯(lián)合承辦的“葡萄酒對話普洱茶”的主題系列開幕式。通過每月一次的主題論壇，開展普洱茶與葡萄酒的深入對話，從而找到更多普洱茶行業(yè)的參考標(biāo)準(zhǔn)和品牌推廣途徑。

　　Through the series of conferences monthly hosted by Discovercha together with Kunming Alliance Francais, Hekai Ancient Tea Estate, JieXi French Wine and Pu-erh Magazine, we aim to popularize French wine culture, and most importantly to seek for some solutions or standards which will work on Pu-erh industry.

　　葡言茶語

　　當(dāng)一些野生的水果自然成熟，落地發(fā)酵，發(fā)生了美妙的變化，自然的釀制成了天然的美酒，于是，人類發(fā)明了酒。最早的釀酒坊可以追逐到6000多年前的古亞美尼亞，之后逐漸了有葡萄酒。到了古埃及時代，法老文明的興起，因?yàn)槠咸丫频念伾c人類的血液及其相似，被用于祭祀，這樣的習(xí)慣沿襲到古希臘和猶太教中。到了古羅馬時代，帝國的征戰(zhàn)和擴(kuò)張，領(lǐng)土幾乎覆蓋了整個歐洲，所到之處，也是葡萄酒的所及之地，包括今天大家耳熟能詳?shù)姆▏?、德國、意大利、西班牙、葡萄牙等。?jīng)過漫長的黑暗中世紀(jì)，1492年，哥倫布開啟了航海環(huán)球旅行，意外地發(fā)現(xiàn)了美洲，葡萄酒因此也被跨越海洋帶到了美洲。隨后的荷蘭、法國的殖民擴(kuò)張，將葡萄酒隨之帶到了北美，南非，澳大利亞，新西蘭等，葡萄酒從此在全世界開花結(jié)果，散發(fā)著誘人的酒香。

　　Imagine how wine was invented? When some wild fruits fell off onto the ground, and got fermented, that became the initial wine. The earliest winery can be dated back to 6000 years ago in ancient Armenia, then gradually, wine was invented. In ancient Egypt era, because of the risen of Pharaoh, wine was used as the important sacrament due to its resemblance to blood. Such customs were inherited through ancient Greek, used in Judaism as well. However, wine was mainly spread along Mediterranean sea until during the Ancient Rome time, with the expansion and colony of Rome Empire, wine reached everywhere in Europe, including France, Germany, Italy, Spain, Portugal, etc. During the dark Middle Ages, wine making was perfected as well because of development and expansion of church. In 1492, Columbus discovered the New World, therefore, wine landed in other new continent. With European further colony and conquest, wine reached further south America, north America, South Africa, Australia, New Zealand, Japan, almost reached each corner of the world, conquered the whole earth.

　　法語聯(lián)盟

　　這故事是不是似曾相識呢？如果說葡萄酒扮演的是征服者的角色，隨著帝國的變化和世界版圖的改變而改變，那么，茶則更多的是扮演了和平使者的角色。“神農(nóng)嘗百草，日遇七十二毒，得一荼而解之?！辈瑁蚱渌幱霉δ鼙话l(fā)現(xiàn)，被利用，后被用于祭祀，又因佛家、道家的發(fā)展而發(fā)展，興盛而繁榮。到了唐代，誕生了偉大的茶圣陸羽，成書《茶經(jīng)》，流傳千史；大唐茶詩，百余文人儒士共筑繁榮；茶馬古道將茶傳入邊疆少數(shù)民族；龍團(tuán)鳳餅，茶文化登峰造極，宋氏王朝成也敗也。宋時，榮西禪師兩渡中國，將茶帶入日本，完成了《吃茶養(yǎng)生記》，成就了日本茶道。13世紀(jì)，沿著茶馬古道大篷車，茶傳入蒙古，后逐漸傳入俄羅斯。大航海時代，沿著海上絲綢之路，繞過好望角，葡萄牙和荷蘭將茶引入歐洲，成為時尚，葡萄牙公主凱瑟琳下嫁英王查理二世，英式下午茶因此而成名。東印度公司，更是為英國創(chuàng)造了巨額財(cái)富，締造了日不落帝國。殖民當(dāng)然也不總是一帆風(fēng)順的，波士頓傾茶事件拉響了美國獨(dú)立戰(zhàn)爭的號角。英國因?yàn)閷Σ柚a，白銀外流，財(cái)政赤字，于是向中國傾銷鴉片，幾十年后，國人終于覺醒，發(fā)動了虎門銷煙，因此點(diǎn)燃了第一次鴉片戰(zhàn)爭的戰(zhàn)火，從此拉開了中國的近代史。茶，從另外一個方面改變了全世界的版圖！

　　Does it sound similar? If wine played the role of conqueror, then tea played the role of peace messenger. Tea was found and used as medicine initially, then used in sacrifice later too. It fluctuated with the development of Buddhism and Zen. Until Tang dynasty, the birth of tea saint Luyu achieved the great Tea Classics, widely spread even now. The prosperous and stable economy in Tang had bloomed the tea culture, gave birth to lots of tea literature and poets, tea was brought to border minorities along the Ancient Tea Horse Road at that time, changed their life. After that, tea culture in Song dynasty reached its heyday, whisked tea and tea drama were the most popular tea among royals and nobles classes. Meanwhile, Eisai came to China twice, brought tea and tea seeds to Japan, started Japanese tea and promoted Song whisked tea. During the Maritime Navigation Era, tea was imported by Portugal and Holland into Europe, explored its new land. Since Princess Catherine married CharlieⅡ, had popularized the afternoon tea in whole Britain. The British East Indian company earned immense amount of fortune by trading tea and other eastern goods, assisted in building the Empire of United Kingdom. Tea is tender and gentle, but it can cause evil and ambition. In order to fight again UK’s high tax and manipulation, the Boston Tea Party throw the Britain’s tea away into the bay, fueling the American Revolution. On the other side, Britain became addicted to tea, spent vast money on Chinese tea, in order to balance the finance deficit, they successfully dumped opium into China. In decades of years, finally, China said no, and burnt the opium, therefore caused the first Opium War(1840 - 1842), China entered modern history. It’s no hard to see , tea magically changed the world.

　　六大茶山

　　無獨(dú)有偶，茶與酒都承載了東西方的文化、藝術(shù)、哲學(xué)思想，一盞茶是天地的精華，一輩酒是西方的智慧。它們都是上天賜予人類的禮物，經(jīng)過人類之手，制成了最美的甘露和佳釀。哲學(xué)家柏拉圖、亞里士多德、伏爾泰都曾是葡萄酒的狂熱愛好者，美酒為其醞釀了杰出的哲學(xué)思想，狄德羅的《我飲故我在》成為今天最暢銷的葡萄酒哲學(xué)向?qū)?；在中國，不管琴棋書畫詩歌茶，還是柴米油鹽醬醋茶，茶都是生活中非常重要的一部分，承載了儒釋道的東方哲學(xué)。我們需要時刻保持空杯的狀態(tài)，斟上1/4到1/3的葡萄酒于酒杯，才能更好的享受其芬芳和甘醇；也要懂得拿起、放下的生活智慧，活在當(dāng)下，才不負(fù)人生。

　　Coincidently, both wine and tea carry the cultures, arts and philosophies, a cup of tea is the essence of nature, and a glass of wine is the wisdom of the west. They are the best gifts, granted by nature, through mankind, turn into the best liquid for us. Philosophers like Plato, Aristotle, Voltaire are wine lovers, I drink therefore I am: A Philosopher's Guide to Wine wrote by Roger Scruton, is a great book inspires many drinkers. Wine indeed gives birth to abundant of philosophy thoughts, so does tea. In China, tea can be elegant as guqin, chess, calligraphy, painting, poetry, music; tea can be ordinary as firewood, rice, oil, salt, sauce, vinegar, it plays the most important part to us, carries the eastern wisdom of Confucianism, Zen and Buddhism. It is necessary that we keep humble, so we are able to enjoy the life and accept more, just like that when we take 1/4 to 1/3 glass of wine to enjoy it better. It is necessary that we know how to accept some imperfection and let it go. Enjoy the moment is the wise choice.

　　杰曦法國

　　1855年，為了能在巴黎世界博覽會上向世界弘揚(yáng)法國優(yōu)質(zhì)的葡萄酒，拿破侖三世下令對波爾多酒莊進(jìn)行分級。于是肩負(fù)皇命的波爾多商會委托波爾多經(jīng)紀(jì)人聯(lián)合會遴選出最好的葡萄酒。經(jīng)紀(jì)人聯(lián)合會將最好的酒莊分為了五個等級，列出名單上呈。由此誕生了歷史上首個被公認(rèn)的葡萄酒莊分級制度。作為法國葡萄酒核心產(chǎn)區(qū)的地位，受益于此的這些波爾多名莊h和法國葡萄酒也因此而享譽(yù)全世界。

　　In 1855, Napoleon III, emperor of France, decided to throw a Universal Exposition in Paris, and wanted to represent French fine wine. He required Bordeaux's Chamber of Commerce to arrange an exhibit. The members of the chamber knew a hornet's nest when they saw one, so they passed the buck. They agreed, according to their records, to present "all our crus classés, up to the fifth-growths," but asked the Syndicat of Courtiers, an organization of wine merchants, to draw up "an exact and complete list of all the red wines of the Gironde that specifies in which class they belong." Curiously, all of the courtiers' selections came from the Médoc, with the single exception of Haut-Brion (they also ranked the sweet white wines of Sauternes and Barsac). However, 1855 classification has leaded French wine world widely famous and popular.

　　茶是最好的老師

　　如果將目光移向中國的西南邊陲云南，普洱茶其實(shí)早在其100多年前，已經(jīng)在十二版納區(qū)域形成了經(jīng)濟(jì)、文化中心，“改土歸流”的成功，1729年（清雍正七年）普洱府的成立，倚傍的興盛，易武的崛起，普洱茶沿著茶馬古道，遠(yuǎn)銷海外。嘉慶四年《滇海虞衡志》：“普茶名重于天下，此滇之所以為產(chǎn)而資利賴者也。出普洱屬六茶山：一曰攸樂，二曰革登，三曰倚邦，四曰莽枝，五曰蠻磚，六曰慢撒，周八百里，入山作茶者數(shù)十萬人。茶客收買，運(yùn)于各處。每盈路，可謂大錢糧矣?！?/p>

　　In south-west China, pu-erh tea had gained its fame even 100 earlier than that, established the center of economy and culture. In 1729(the 7th year of Yongzheng throne), because of the successful reform, the establishment of Pu’er government(in current Ning’Er county), later on the prosperity of Yibang and Yiwu(Old name is Mansha), pu-erh tea was taken along the Ancient Tea Horse Road, transported abroad already. Dian Hai Yu Hen Zhi(Yunnan chorography wrote by Tancui in 1798, the 4th year of JiaQing emperor), recorded that pu’erh tea was famous, therefore Yunnan businessmen made lots of fortune. There were six mountains produced pu’erh tea, which were Youle, Gedeng, Yibang, Mangzhi, Mansha, and ten thousand of people flooded into mountain from the surrounding 800 miles. They purchased tea, and sold in other cities, as a result, earned big money.

　　同行柯鋒先生分享“茶園分級體系”

　　200多年過去了，經(jīng)歷了歷史的滾滾紅塵，法國葡萄酒成為風(fēng)靡全世界高品質(zhì)葡萄酒的代言人，而普洱茶，經(jīng)歷了跌宕起伏的年代，雖然貴為國飲，但其整個產(chǎn)業(yè)化生產(chǎn)才剛剛起步。正如沙龍現(xiàn)場的朋友反映的一樣，我們連好茶的標(biāo)準(zhǔn)是什么，都沒有辦法簡單回答，“古樹”、“純料”、“單株”“老茶”、“冰島”、“老班章”等滿天飛卻真假難辨，最直接的原因就是標(biāo)準(zhǔn)的缺失和監(jiān)管的低效，才導(dǎo)致地理標(biāo)志產(chǎn)品規(guī)則被忽視，或者被濫用，從而使得市場混亂，三無產(chǎn)品橫行，普洱茶的品牌的誠信度和公信力亟待提高。

　　However, over 200 hundreds of years passed, French wine has definitely conquered the whole world, been granted the crown of best wine, pu-erh tea is nationally popular although, however its industrialized development just started. It is an agreeable truth that pu-erh tea is valuable, worthwhile for collection and investment, but how do we know it is a good cake of tea since the labels are not informative, fake branded teas like ancient tea tree, pure material, single tree, old tea, Bingdao, Laobanzhang, are filled in the market. Due to the lack of concrete standards and efficient supervise, the regulations of Geographic Indication Products do not guarantee anything currently, and that ruins the whole pu-erh industry.

　　我們熱愛中國的國粹普洱茶，我們已經(jīng)準(zhǔn)備好為普洱茶傾注一生。“好茶的標(biāo)準(zhǔn)是什么？”，從這個問題出發(fā)，六山努力了17年。我們列出了一系列的主題，通過每月一次主題的深入對話，9月普洱茶法國之行，中法雙方代表企業(yè)的共同參與，志同道合的同行共同行動，我們相信，在普及葡萄酒文化的同時，也一定可以尋找到更適合普洱茶的標(biāo)準(zhǔn)。

　　We love pu-erh tea, we are ready to devote the whole life to it. Back to the initial question of what are the standards of good pu-erh tea, we listed the following subjects.Through monthly conference-dialogue wine and tea, including one conference in France in September, both Chinese and French tea companies and organizations participation, and all the individuals and tea companies in common interests take each active role, we believe that, we are able to provide better standards for pu-erh tea and Yunnan tea.

　　“普洱茶對話葡萄酒”論壇起航了，本系列論壇由杰曦法國葡萄酒引進(jìn)的來自AOC原產(chǎn)地教皇新堡魅夢干紅葡萄酒和六山賀開古茶莊園有機(jī)普洱茶全程贊助。伴著書香、茶香和酒香，看似小小的舞臺，因?yàn)橛袩釔燮斩?、熱愛葡萄酒、熱愛中法文化的你們的參與，我們將共筑一個大大的夢想。隨著六山賀開古茶莊園即將竣工投產(chǎn)，古茶莊園即將迎來新的篇章。

　　The Series of Conference are sponsored by les Mementes AOC Chateauneuf du Pape and Hekai Ancient Tea Estate Organic Tea. It might be a small stage, it might be a small dream, with your supporting and attending, together, the dream will be ambitious and come true. We believe that Hekai Ancient Tea Estate will step into another new page soon.